Pokhara, Nepal

Itinerary

This is the most aggressive and complete Annapurna trekking itinerary online. If you can keep up with this schedule, you are a Ghost.

Ultimate Annapurna Ghost Trek

Section I: Annapurna Base Camp and Thorong La

Day 1 – Pokhara (820 m) → Nayapul (1070 m) → Ghandruk (1940 m)

From the Zero Km intersection (Phewa Marga Ave + Baglung highway) in Pokhara. Take a van or bus to Nayapul for 250 NPR. These usually leave every 30min and take around 1hr 45min including lunch to arrive in Nayapul.

The classic ABC trek starts here - Mostly jeep roads out of Nayapul followed by moderate stone steps up starting from Kly Danda hamlet. Climb gradually through villages and farmland to forested paths near Ghandruk.

Notes: Easy to moderate uphill intro hike day. Bus logistics in the morning.

Day 2 – Ghandruk (1940 m) → Jhinu Danda (1750 m) → Chomrong (2170 m)

Terrain: Some large rolling stone hills. Several stair forks so keep your map handy. Ghost time from Ghandruk to Jinhu village: 2hr 35min. Take a break at Jhinu Danda to soak in the springs. The springs are 200NPR but probably free in the low season - note the path down to the springs from Jhinu is the farthest from the village in all of Annapurna; it’s all the way down by the river. Ghost time of 12min down to the springs from Jinhu village, 20min back from the river.

Grab a bite in Jinhu village after your soak, then continue up more stone step to a hub village of Chomrong in a ghost time of 55min. Chomrong is where some agency trekkers start if they want a shortcut.

Lucky Guesthouse in Chomrong has nice double rooms with large patio and dining room for 300 NPR.

Day 3 – Chomrong (2170 m) → Himalaya (2920 m)

Terrain: Rocky, narrow trails with some waterfall crossings. Mostly uphill. Pass through the lush forest of Bamboo Village and the 108 waterfalls before the final climb to Himalaya hamlet. This should be easy in the dry season. Ghost time not recorded due to frequent stops from isolated storms.

Day 4 – Himalaya (2920 m) → ABC (4130 m)

Terrain: Gradually increasing altitude; mix of rocky paths and loose scree near Machhapuchhre Base Camp (MBC 3700 m). Minor landslide risks before MBC with loose rock and several streams. Grab a tea or lunch in MBC before the final push to ABC. Charge your electronics at MBC, since charging at ABC lodges costs 200 NPR extra.

Ghost time from Himalaya to ABC: 3h 25min. The lodges at ABC are very basic and not cheap, however it’s worth staying here in order to acclimate for the Thorong La push later. If you are not planning to do the full Annapurnca circuit, its better to stay at MBC and just day hike up to ABC.

Day 5 – ABC (4130 m) → Chomrong (2170 m)

Terrain: Backtrack to Chomrong, the same way you came but double time. Longer day with a total descent of over 3000 m and net elevation loss of almost 2000 m. Stretch your hips and knees while taking a breather.

Day 6 – Chomrong (2170 m) → Tadapani (2630 m)

With the famous ABC trek complete, most people are already heading back to Pokhara. But we're just getting started. The trail forks here and we're taking the route less travelled. Poon Hill trek starts next.

Climb out of Chomrong on stone steps to a valley path. Forested ridge trails; moderate stone stair climbs. Fewer trekkers on this trail vs the standard ABC path. No other hikers going the same direction at the end of monsoon season in early September.

Panoramic Hotel in Tadapani, 500 NPR for a nice double room near the top of the village. This is one of the few lodges with some real luxury vibes-hot shower, roaring furnace and good service-rare for trekking routes. Tadapani is one of the major hub villages in ACAP. Ghosts can comfortably reach Ghorepani in 1 day in dry weather.

Day 7 – Tadapani (2630 m) → Ghorepani (2860 m)

Some downhill and a moderate uphill. More stairs and dirt trail through forest and terrace hills. Moderate rolling stairs across a few waterfalls and creeks. Poon Hill sunrise the next day if it’s clear.

Moonlight Guesthouse - smaller cozy place in the center of Gorepani with warm furnace and hot shower. Amazing food and hospitality, rooms for only 200 NPR.

Day 8 – Ghorepani (2860 m) → Sikha (2100 m)

Terrain: Mixed forest trail; rolling hills; some steep sections.

Notes: Easy descent day if you dont get lost. A mix of jeep road, stone stairs and faint trails. On a dry day you can easily head straight to Tatopani.

Day 9 – Sikha (2100 m) → Tatopani (1190 m)

Terrain: Long downhill; mostly stone steps and dirt paths. Connect with the highway towards Jomsom - you’ll need to hike on the Jomsom–Beni highway for 2–3 km until reaching Tatopani. Tatopani literally means hot-springs in Nepali.

Notes: Soak in Tatopani hot springs for 150 NPR - best equipped hot springs in Annapurna with large shower area and 2 pools. Located right next to the village.

Day 10 – Tatopani (1190 m) → Jomsom (2710 m) (Jeep/Hike/Bus)

Terrain: Jeep road that gets washed out or blocked by landslides. Classic trekker route on the other side of the river. Multiple bridges can be accessed via the highway.

Notes: Jeeps and buses are unreliable, and may be stalled due to landslides. If the bus is stuck, cross one of the many bridges over the Kali Gandaki River to bypass the roadblock.

Notes: I took a van from Tatopani which got stuck after 10 min due to a landslide. So I crossed the suspension bridge and hiked past the slide, where I caught a chicken bus. It was the end of monsoon season, so that bus got stuck as well. I crossed another suspension bridge and hiked to a small village Ghansa. There were a couple of rustic lodges in the village, so I knew I was safe for the night. I caught a jeep straight to Jomsom for 500 NPR. Total travel time approx 8.5hrs from Tatopani to Jomson.

Day 11 – Optional rest/resupply day in Jomsom (2710 m)

Remote arid mountain town on the northern edge of the sanctuary. Good place to resupply - Jomsom is the last real town until Besisahar. Optional mild uphill hike to the nearby village of Thini (2800 m) through apple orchards.

Riverview Guesthouse has double rooms for 600 NPR and laundry loads for 500 NPR.

Day 12 – Jomsom (2710 m) → Kagbeni (2810 m)

Terrain: Gravel and paved jeep road with views of the Kali Gandaki River below; dry, windy, relatively easy and flat. You can hike down to the river if you need more of a challenge.

Paradise Guesthouse in Kagbeni has nice rooms and large dining room with solid wifi for 500 NPR, by far the cheapest in the village.

Notes: There was also a chicken bus to Muktinath from Jomsom that stopped running at 9 am if you need a shortcut to Muktinath.

Day 13 – Kagbeni (2810 m) → Muktinath (3760 m)

Terrain: Don’t hike along the highway. There is an old jeep road north of the highway that runs through Putak and Jhong, small villages 1 hr from Muktinath. Exposed scree jeep road with almost no motor traffic due to the adjacent highway. Mostly uphill; trail can get confusing leading into Muktinath. Ghost time: 3hr 55min from Kagbeni to Ranipauwa, the village beside the temples of Muktinath.

Bob Marley hotel has hot showers and nice dining room with good wifi. Free room with food purchase.

Day 14 – Muktinath (3760 m) → Charabu (4200 m)

Terrain: Very short all uphill day. Stairs up to the temples of Muktinath, then scree trail the rest of the way. Check out the fire temple on the way.

Stay at Charabu to acclimate since there are no more lodges higher up. Ghost time: 1hr 35min from Ranipawa to Charabu. There were only 2 or 3 lodges open in this small hamlet so choices are limited. Short day but vital for acclimating.

Day 15 – Charabu (4200 m) → Thorong La (5410 m) → Yak Kharka (4050 m)

This is the climax. Push through the Thorong La high pass. All scree uphill trail, steep at times. Other trekkers trained and prepped months for this day, but for you it feels like routine. Celebrate small wins like reaching 5000m with a snickers.

No agency goes this way, so expect some curiosity from guides and trekkers coming down.

Ghost time: 4h 10min to the Thorong pass sign from Charabu.

From the peak, descend a couple hours to Phedi (4280 m), ghost time: 1h 50min from Thorong La.

You can grab lunch in Phedi but lodges here don’t have showers so keep pushing, past the suspension bridge to the hamlet of Churi Latar (3700 m). Mostly downhill single path scree section with nice views of the river and its tributary waterfalls. Ghost time 50min from Phedi to Churi Latar.

Dhading Laxmi Hotel in Churi Latar at the lower end of the village has nice double rooms and a hot shower for only 200 NPR.

Notes: This was the opposite direction of the conventional circuit. No agency goes this way since its considered risky due to the rapid altitude gain from Muktinath. Bring your A-game and mentally prepare for a 9–10 hr grind.

Day 16 – Yak Kharka (4050 m) → Khangsar (3710 m)

Hike about 30min til you reach a junction on the right off the main circuit. Continue down the valley to a suspension bridge with a lone guesthouse. Crowds thin as you move off the main circuit trail. Moderate single path climb after the bridge. It’s easy to miss the fork towards Lake Tilicho so keep your map handy. You end up in Manang village if you miss the semi-discreet junction. Mostly scree paths the whole way with occasional stair sections. Lightly travelled route.

Maya Hotel in Khangsar has a free room with any food purchase, warm shower and furnace.

Day 17 – Khangsar (3710 m) → Tilicho Base Camp (4150 m) → Tilicho Lake (4910 m) and back to BC

Continue further off the main circuit trail towards stunning lake Tilicho. Rocky trails; uphill scree slopes; high-altitude steep terrain - be mindful of the ledge. Almost all uphill. Steep and exposed. This was my favorite side trek due to the stunning landscapes and surreal lake color.

Ghost time: 3hr 20min to Tilicho Base Camp. Leave your pack and grab lunch at a lodge in Tilicho BC before hiking up to Lake Tilicho in the afternoon. Ghost time from Tilicho BC to Lake Tilicho 1hr 45min.

One of the more challenging yet visually stunning days if you hike all the way up to the lake.

New Norbu Ling Hotel has a hot shower and furnace. Rooms in the 300–800 NPR range for 1 person.

Day 18 – Tilicho BC (4150 m) → Manang (3540 m)

With Lake Tilicho ticked off, that’s 4 major treks down. Time to rejoin the main circuit.

Descend back through Khangsar and continue through some jeep roads and singlepath to the larger village of Manang. This is an older more significant village.

Thorongla Hotel in Manang has nice double rooms and large dining hall for 300 NPR. Hike up to Praken Gomba or Chongkor for sunset.

Day 19 – Rest day in Manang (3540 m) with optional day hikes to Praken Gomba / Chongkor

Terrain:Manang is a larger village so they have more supplies. Good place for a rest day. Mild uphill climbs on either side of town. Good views of the town, river, and waterfalls. Nice to hike around without the pack.

Day 20 – Manang (3540 m) → Braka (3670 m) → Ice Lake (4500 m)

Easy flat walk 2–3 km to next village of Braka. Drop your bags at a lodge in Braka.

Day hike up to Ice Lake - a light 1000 m elevation gain. Mostly stone step out of the village, then scree slopes leading up to the lake. Some claim this side 'trek' is challenging but it felt like cake. Ghost time: 2hrs 10min up, 80 min walk jog down without the pack.

Day 21 – Braka (3670 m) → Upper Pisang (3200 m)

Terrain: Easy and smooth downhill along the river and jeep trail. Try to stick closer to the river to avoid the jeep road. Very mild uphills. The trekking route is mostly intact but gets cut by jeep roads at various points.

Day 22 – Upper Pisang (3200 m) → Chame (2710 m)

Similar to yesterday, but jeep roads become more frequent. Easy 2 hr hike along the river mostly downhill. New Tibet Hotel has a free room right next to the springs. These springs are the hottest in Annapurna and are free - only a 1-minute walk from New Tibet Hotel. Easily the favorite hot springs in Annapurna.

Day 23 – Chame (2710 m) → Lamjung Base Camp (3370 m) and back

This is the only major day hike not visible on OSM offline maps. Moderate hike up to LBC starting from Chame hospital area - mostly well-defined switchback and ridge trails with no other hikers. The trail opens to a grassy area and gets faint near the top.

Notes: I got lost on descent due to no trail on the map - had to climb down a grassy cliff and scramble hard through dense foliage. Grabbed shrubs and branches for balance trying to descend through thick bush. Scrambled on a narrow dirt path beside sheer rock cliff. Had to climb back up due to sheer rock cliff dead end. Intense and abit dangerous. Luckily found a way out of the woods at 6 pm sunset #blairwitchday. Can’t in good conscience recommend this day hike without adequate map trail data.

Ghost Time: 3h 15min ascent at a relaxed pace to LBC. Disastrous descent took over 5 hours. Clouds roll in in late morning to afternoon making the trail easy to miss. - drop position pins along the way if your map doesn’t show a trail.

Day 24 – Transition: Chame (2710 m) → Besisahar (760 m) (Jeep)

Congrats, you completed the Annapurna Circuit in reverse along with major side treks Tilicho, Ice Lake and Lamjung - giving you some serious bragging rights. Jeeps leave from Chame every couple of hours. The most expensive ride of the excursion at 2,500 NPR. Road back to civilization is rough and unpaved, moderate traffic.

Jeep stops a couple times at ACAP checkpoints so have your permit handy. Ride time approx 4 hrs including lunch. Motion sickness alert. Try to leave after rain so the road is less dusty.

Stay a night at Besisahar for some cheap food and supplies before heading back to Pokhara.

Day 25 – Besisahar (760 m) → Pokhara (820 m) (Bus)

Easy to catch a local chicken bus on the main street. Try to negotiate to 600 NPR. Expect the local bus to stop often. Bus time approx 5 hrs including a food stop.

**Rest and resupply in Pokhara a few days til you’re ready to continue.

Section II: Mardi Himal, Hidden Lake, Khayer Lake and Mohare Danda

Day 26 – Revival: Pokhara (820 m) → Kande (1450 m) → Australian Camp (1920 m) → Forest Camp (2160 m)

From the Zero Km intersection, take a bus or van to Kande for only 150 NPR. The van or bus takes about 1hr 20min to reach Kande. Signs pointing to trailhead are easy to spot at the side of the highway. Stone stairs right away unlike starting in Nayapul. Ghost time from Kande to Australian Camp: 40 min. Australian Camp to Forest Camp: 3 hr 50 min.

Terrain: Standard stone steps uphill. Well-defined, forested, shaded trails, with some stair junctions. Zero motor traffic.

Day 27 – Forest Camp (2160 m) → High Camp (2580 m) → Mardi Himal BC (3560 m)

Longer and more aggressive day. Hike from Forest Camp to High Camp. Drop your pack and grab some lunch at a lodge in High Camp. Hike up to MH BC in the afternoon when there are almost no other trekkers. Visibility may be limited at this time.

Ghost time: 1 hr 55 min from Forest Camp to High Camp. 3 hr 5 min from High Camp to Mardi Himal BC. Descend back to High Camp for the night. Congrats, you completed a 5-day agency trek in 2 days.

Terrain: Mostly stone steps. Some steep rocky and loose trails; exposed ridge. Some smaller paths branching off main route. Stone steps become less frequent the higher you climb.

Day 28 – High Camp (2580 m) → Landruk (1340 m)

Descend back the same way to Forest Camp, then branch off towards the deep canyon river towards Landruk + Ghandruk and the ABC trail. Long downhill stairs; mild cardio with repeated long stair descent to the lower elevation village of Landruk just before the big river. Easy on cardio, tough on joints. Do some stretching and mobility during breaks.

Day 29 – Landruk (1340 m) → Ghandruk (1940 m) → Tadapani (2630 m)

Terrain: Forest trails easy descent to bridge across the big river. Then moderate climb out of the valley. Cut through 1 jeep road before ascending up steps to the familiar village Gandruk. Take a short break in Gandruk before climbing more steps to your 2nd visit of Tadapani. Tadapani is a trail hub village, so every building is a guesthouse or hotel. Panoramic Hotel sticks out.

Day 30 – Tadapani (2630 m) → Dobato (3350 m)/ Mulde Viewpoint (3630 m)

The correct trailhead towards Dobato is next to Panoramic Hotel. Mostly rolling with mild ascending dirt paths. A mild-moderate scenic windy cliff-valley hike.

Lucky Hotel in Dobato has hot showers, free wifi, and hot furnace at night - all for 300 NPR for 1 guest.

Visit the Muldai Viewpoint with 360° panoramic view after dropping your bag in Dobato.

Stay in Dobato for 2 nights so you can hike to Hidden Lake tomorrow. Note: Dobato feels significantly colder than Tadapani.

Day 31 – Dobato (3350 m) → Hidden Lake (4380 m) and back

One of the toughest day hikes. Total ascent over 1,300 m over rough, loose rocky terrain and wet waterfall sections. The trail becomes faint after the lone lodge in Pode Kharka, a good place to grab lunch. Easy to get lost in the fog close to the lake. Thats why its called hidden lake. Try to stay close to the trail on the map. Ghost time: 4 hrs up + 3 hrs down.

Toughest side hike on the route so only carry what you need for the day.

Day 32 – Dobato (3350 m) → Khopra Ridge (3660 m)

Rolling dirt single path and more scenic snow cap views. Cross several bridges over forested waterfall creeks. Grab lunch in Dhan Kharka (3350 m) before the short but steep climb of about 700 m to Khopra Ridge. There is only one community lodge, so it’s basic - no shower or working furnace in the dining room. This is your base for Khayer Lake tomorrow.

Note: Khopra felt the coldest place I slept at night - even colder than ABC or Charabu, despite being at a lower elevation.

Day 33 – Khopra Ridge (3660 m) → Khayer Lake (4600 m) → Swanta (2250 m)

Longer aggressive day. Get an early start to the lake so you can descend back in time for checkout since the lone community lodge doesn’t have shower or furnace. Mostly uphill stairs and scree with some stream crossings. A well defined trail for a more remote route. Reach the sacred Khayer Lake in a ghost time of 3hrs 10min. Decent back to the lodge in a ghost time of 1hr 50min. After checking out, descend to Dhan Kharka for a quick lunch or snack before taking a new connecting trail towards Swanta. Descend through a lush valley with multiple waterfall crossings to reach the picturesque village of Swanta in a ghost time of 3hrs 5min.

Aggressive day with early lake push and total descent of almost 3,000 m from Khayer to Swanta. Good for noting differences in terrain and temperature across elevations.

Day 34 – Swanta (2250 m) → Ghorepani (2860 m)

Easy to moderate uphill mostly stone steps with a few km of jeep road. Ghost time 1hr 55min. The 2nd visit to Gorepani where every building is a lodge, so it’s easy to find a room. Prices range from 200–1,500 NPR.

Day 35 – Rest day hike around Ghorepani (2860 m) → Poon Hill / Mohare Danda (3310 m)

Ghorepani has some descent trail loops good enough for a day of hiking without your pack. Head up to Poon Hill again for some pushups and handstand work by the watchtower. Then take connecting trail south towards Mohara Danda. There is a hill with national flags and panoramic view just past the Mohare Danda Viewpoint. Easy, relaxed day with no pack carrying.

Day 36 – Ghorepani (2860 m) → Tadapani (2630 m) → Jhinu Danda (1750 m)

Ghorepani and Tadapani are the major hubs, villages where you can access different trailheads in various directions. The route between them was packed in October high season.

Day 37 – Return: Jhinu (1750 m) → via Samrung / Landruk / Australian Camp → Pokhara (820 m)

The trail splits after the suspension bridge out of Jhinu. The main trails head toward Chomrong and Gandruk, but we're taking the small trail downhill on the right, right after the Jinhu suspension bridge. This small trail empties out at Samrung. Typical dirt singlepath along the river. Cross another suspension bridge at New Bridge hamlet and take a short hike along a jeep road, luckily with light traffic. Steps cut up through Landruk then Tolka to Deurali. Backtrack to Australian Camp and Kande on the highway. Catch the bus back to Pokhara for 150 NPR.

Section III: Sikles and Kapuche Lake

Day 38 - Pokhara (820 m) → Sikles (1980 m) (Bus)

Day 39- Sikles (1980 m) → Hugu Goth (2020 m)

Day 40 - Hugu Goth (2020 m) → Kapuche Lake (2540 m) → Sikles (1980 m)

From scree to streets

Back in Pokhara, the chaos clashes with the stillness of the trails, but your legs still move to the rhythm of the ridges. The paths are behind you, yet the flow never leaves.