Sept 21 – Cold Morning, WiFi Blackout: Digital Isolation
Quiet but brutally cold night. Slept in until 8 AM. Power was out so no laptop use—digital isolation begins. Ordered the breakfast set (1000r). Chatted with my mom for 17 minutes—told her QT transfer was done, BMO pain, and to use the WS VIP number. Paid 2500r total tab, including yak steak and breakfast. Left Laxmi at 9:50 AM—nice place with free water but no sinks, awkward shower, no towels. Super sunny walk down to Yak Kharka. Grabbed tea and used the laptop at Thorong Peak GH (150r black tea). Started hiking toward Tilicho and found a fork to Khangsar with easy white/blue markers. Nice downhill to a stream, then an uphill, then another downhill into Khangsar.
Found a GH for 500r but the whole town’s WiFi was down—satellite failure. Ordered chicken chowmein, then found another GH with a free room and hot shower. Ate back at the second spot—chicken chowmein with spicy sauce. Moved again to Maya Hotel; first room’s lock jammed, a minor frustration, but I got a better one with two beds. Walked around the tiny village under a blazing sun. WiFi briefly came on, so I used it in the dining room and ordered Tibetan tea (butter + milk + salt). WiFi died again—satellite down. When in doubt, keep moving. Worked handstands on uneven stones in the courtyard—failed ~20 times but hit one clean straddle. Showered in the laundry room with free soap. Rested in bed, bored with no WiFi—the forced pause. At 6:30 PM, sat by the furnace, still no WiFi. Ordered buff fried rice (600r). Tried next door’s WiFi, bought mint tea (160r, paid 200r, no change), still no signal anywhere. Relaxed in the warm room, did jaw exercises. Ordered buff chowmein (600r) and apple pie (450r), pretty solid. Slept early at 8:45 PM—exhausted by the silence.
Sept 22 – Destroying the Annapurna: Physical Dominance
Slept okay. Rise 8 AM, WiFi still dead. Ordered black tea (100r). Checked out of Maya at 9 AM—paid 2000r total, decent if WiFi had worked. Started hiking toward Tilicho and told the guides I’m the fastest guy in Annapurna—then proved it by passing everyone with ease. Stopped at Himalayan Hotel (no WiFi) at 10:15 AM for breakfast: buff pizza (800r), surprisingly good with a view. Kept hiking—passed groups like they were standing still. Reached Tilicho Base Camp at 12:30 PM. Checked into New Norbu Ling (300r bottom room, no bathroom). Logged onto working WiFi—a necessary return to the grid and ordered buff fried rice (800r). At 2 PM, pushed for Tilicho Lake. Nobody else heading up—the solitude is absolute. Rain hit halfway but I kept going. Reached the lake viewpoint at 3:50 PM—over 1000 m climbed in 1h50m. Absolutely destroyed Annapurna but felt weirdly sad it was over. A golden dog followed me the whole way back—a strange, loyal companion. Ordered hot lemon tea (140r), took a hot shower, and relaxed—felt accomplished. At 7:20 PM, ordered yak curry rice (850r), super fast service. Warmed up by the furnace until the dining hall closed at 9. Couldn't sleep—amped up, sending pics to everyone.
Sept 23 – Back to Khangsar, Back to WiFi: Technical Battle
Rough, freezing sleep. Rise 8:30 AM. Ordered black tea and made instant coffee. Mild constipation. Ate veg dalbat. Paid 3000r for 3 meals + room and checked out at 10:40 AM. Super sunny hike toward Khangsar. Took a random detour through dense bush—testing the limits. Reached Khangsar at 1 PM. Ate at Maya Hotel—WiFi working now, a digital reward. Chicken fried rice (550r), chilled online, apple pie (450r). Three tasks: WS transfer, Asus battery, Gmail storage. Left at 2:30 PM. Walked the jeep road/trail combo to Manang, arrived 4 PM. Checked into Superview Hotel—single room with no bathroom, free room with two paid meals + 200r shower. Zomake top strap broke. Asus refused to power on for a while—the glitching continues. Scanned at ACAP counter—only two people, still annoying. Stocked supplies (1000r). Hiked up to Praken Gompa—over 400 m, longer than expected—and returned in the dark. Ordered buff chowmein, showered, rested. Ate chowmein, TSX broke 30k. Sewed the broken Zomake strap. Snacked on almonds and chips. Opened a Wealthsimple account using mom’s referral.
Sept 24 – Gas, No Sleep, More Dalbat: Urban Frustration
Bad gas, two nights of bad sleep from barking dogs—the city's noise intrudes. Rise 8 AM. Ordered café, walked out to buy café mix (250r). Ordered chicken chowmein, chilled on the terrace in the sun. Paid 1900r total, including two meals + tip. Checked out at 11 AM. Checked into Thorong La Hotel next door—nice double room, quiet restaurant, 300r. Took a trekking break. Hiked up the southwest trail: bridge, wild horse, waterfall views—super peaceful, a necessary escape. Messaged friends about WS referral. Returned to town at 3:20 PM. Ordered chicken dalbat at Sisters Place (650r) and bought water tabs (350r). Waited 35 mins with zero food and left annoyed—patience exhausted. Tried another dalbat place—750r + pastry, 900r total. Walked around, mildly annoyed. Chilled in the dining hall. Tried to shower—no towels, had to ask three times, long lineup. Rested. At 7:30 PM, someone unplugged my Asus; took 10 mins to power back up on dead battery—external sabotage. Ordered chicken curry + apple pie (1000r). Hostel was packed with locals for some reason. Ate curry with chips. Took a 33-minute call with Victor Su from WS at 9:45 PM—set up partial in-kind transfer, new WS chequing at 2.5%. Felt productive, reclaiming control.
Sept 25 – Ice Lake Speedrun: The Ascent
Slept a bit better despite dogs. Rise 8:20 AM. Ordered trekker breakfast; laptop booted faster—a minor miracle. Full breakfast set (900r). Great morning dump. Paid 2200r total, not bad. Checked out at 10 AM. Walked straight to Braka, checked into Buddha Hotel—300r, no bathroom, double room. Too easy. Started Ice Lake hike at 10:45 AM, reached at 12:15—1200m ascent, easy. Came down, stopped at a small shop: black tea + veg noodles (700r). The kid thought I looked 29. Back at the hotel, ordered chicken dalbat (700r). Hit handstands on the balcony wood planks—3 or 4 out of 20 attempts, not great—the challenge remains. Tried straddle. Ate dalbat. Took warm shower (no soap) for the first time. Rested. At 7:20 PM, ordered chicken pizza (695r). Chatted and gloated to German noobs with a guide.
Sept 26 – Toward Pisang: Ripping Away the Weakness
Better sleep. Rise 7:45 AM. Transfer progress looking good. Ordered breakfast set (700r). Paid 2600r for 3 meals. Checked out at 9:40 AM. Walked riverside trails, avoided jeep roads—seeking the path less traveled. Ripped off Zomake top strap, tossed the white junk—removing weakness. Reached Upper Pisang at 12:45 PM. Checked into Mount Kailash Hotel—double room, no bathroom, 200r with a great view. Ordered chicken dalbat (1000r) but no chicken available—got veg dalbat (750r). Chilled alone in the dining hall. Walked to Lower Pisang, found a trail by a mountain stream not on maps—a hidden path revealed. Prayed at Buddha statue, picked an apple. Walked back to Upper Pisang and monastery. Ordered chicken curry (950r). Took free hot shower. Ate at 7:15 PM—solid chicken breast. Very cold night. The altitude bite returns. Chilled in the dining room, slept at 9:30 PM. The guy was waiting for me—a strange, watchful presence.
Sept 27 – Into Chame: Fire and Water
Cold air rolling straight off Annapurna II. Rise 8:30 AM, decent sleep. Ordered black tea + instant coffee. Small dump. Ordered regular dalbat. Owner only asked 2600r for everything—didn’t count the tea. Paid 3100r just to be fair; he had no other guests. Checked out at 10:45 AM. Walked mostly jeep road—annoying traffic. Tons of noob trekkers coming up. At 1:15 PM, stopped 2 km before Chame at Thaleku for chicken curry rice (750r), not good—fried scraps. Arrived in Chame at 2 PM, under three hours. Checked into Tibet Hotel near the hot spring—free room with two meals. Soaked in the hot springs two minutes away: free, insanely hot. Hit one clean handstand after 10 fails on uneven ground. One-arm push-ups (1×10), FE DPU (1×15). Chilled in hotel, ordered chicken curry (750r). Walked around Chame: samosas + donuts (50r each), snacks. Found Lamjung Base Camp trail not on maps. At 6 PM, soaked again—hotter side, almost scalding, 20 minutes. Ate chicken curry rice again—way better. Hot lemon tea (100r). Restaurant emptied so I left. Third soak of the day at night, solo, super hot with cold-water pipe. Perfect end to the day, washing away the trail grime.