Sep 14 – Tatopani Arrival + Hot Spring Recovery: A Brief Respite
Heavy rain in the morning. Slept in and rose at 8:45. Ordered the set breakfast for 550 NPR with two extra coffees. Waited out the storm while chatting with Frenchman Alex. Checked out of Arpan at 11 with a tab of 2150 (paid 2250 for good service). Rain stopped. Hiked downhill and hit the Beni–Jomsom highway by 1 p.m.—easiest day so far, a deceptive calm. Food prices much cheaper here: buff curry rice for 335. After scouting lodges (500–2500 NPR), checked into Namaste Lodge for 520 on Visa—private bathroom, hotel-level comfort. Hit the main hot springs at 3 p.m., 150 NPR for access to both pools, super hot water, perfect recovery afternoon. Handstands on pool deck (2/7), one-arm pushups 2×12, free HS 1/5 over 20 seconds, feet-elevated diamond pushups 3×10. Dinner at G Hotel—grilled chicken with fries and rice for 750, celebrating back-to-back trek completions. Ate again at the cheap first spot (momos + tea 300). Stocked snacks and almonds. Tried sitting in a restaurant but got kicked out by the family—ended up upstairs with them smoking. The welcome is conditional.
Sep 15 – Muddy Roads, Bus Chaos, and A Long Push to Jomsom: Logistical Nightmare
Power went out at night, annoying for bathroom trips. Hammering on the terrace at 7 a.m. Rose at 8. Ordered black tea pot (220). Breakfast at the first spot—buff chowmein 300—then packed up and checked out of Namaste at 10:30. Waited on the highway for a bus to Jomsom. Van showed and agreed on 1000 NPR, but they stopped early at Suke Bagar and dumped everyone due to mud. Didn’t pay. Crossed the bridge and trekked north. Ate chowmein at Annapurna Lodge (300). Met a second bus going to Jomsom; negotiated 600 and ate veg dal bhat (320) while waiting out a landslide delay—the mountain dictates the schedule. Bus started, got stuck again, and refunded 500. Repeated system failure. Crossed another bridge near the landslide, trekked an alternate trail to Ghasa, arrived 4 p.m., tea for 100. Got a jeep to Jomsom for 500. Very bumpy ride, internal battery rattling. Reached Jomsom at 6 p.m., walked around lodges (600–2000 NPR). Checked into New Galaxy Hotel for 600—double room, no bathroom, drinking water, working (sometimes) Wi-Fi. Ate chicken curry rice next door (650). Bought gloves for Thorong La prep. Walked the whole town; Wi-Fi kept dying—the digital lifeline is frayed.
Sep 16 – Laundry Day + Exploring Apple Country: Unstable Rest
Dog barking again. Rose 8:40, black tea pot 220. Checked out Galaxy around 10:15 (people too loud) and moved 1 minute away to Riverview GH—quieter, 600 + 500 laundry. Used washing machine twice. Ordered chicken fried rice (500). Bought apples (4 for 80), gloves (800). Walked across the bridge into rock labyrinths. Returned, grabbed momos (200). Explored toward Tini, wandered apple orchards, and visited the “Snow Leopard Cave”—basically two small cliff holes. Light drizzle. Picked up snacks for the pass (500). Dinner at a spot with Wi-Fi: chicken thukpa + momo (500). Riverview Wi-Fi down again, so went to Jomsom Inn to work on banking issues. Ordered chowmein (200). Washed shoes in the shower. The search for a consistent connection is a daily grind.
Sep 17 – Trek to Kagbeni: Return to the Path
Rose 8:40, tea + instant coffee, helped mom with investment-login stuff for ~45 minutes. Ate chowmein and momos (400) at Jomsom Inn. Checked out Riverview 11:15. Walked toward Kagbeni—buses passed but wouldn't pick up—deliberate exclusion. Drizzle the whole way. Reached Ekle Bhatti at 1 p.m., tea for 70. Arrived Kagbeni at 2 p.m. First lodge offered 1000 → bargained to 500. Kept searching; ate at “Yacdonalds” (yak burger 700). Prices everywhere 1000–4000. Returned to the first place, took the 500 room with private bathroom, free water, strong Wi-Fi—stability found. Walked around town, crossed bridges, explored the monastery school. Practiced handstands in a meditation room—failed 6 times, then got 2 good holds. Walked north side toward the trail to Phuong. Ate buff liver with rice crispies at a small place (250). Dinner: chicken dal bhat 800. Slept early—the mind settling for the high ascent.
Sep 18 – Into Ranipauwa: Ascending the Final Hill
Construction banging at 6 a.m. Rise 8, set breakfast with coffee, paid tab 1600. Trek was sunny and exposed with no jeeps around—raw, focused movement. Reached Putak at 12:10, tea 50. Jhong at 1—nothing there—kept moving to Ranipauwa, arrived 2 p.m. before rain. Lodges all 500. Checked into Bob Marley Hotel (free room with food order). Chicken dal bhat (750), then long hot shower—a final indulgence. Later walked the muddy streets, visited ACAP office (door open, nobody inside—negligent security). Tried a place with chicken soup (300)—bad packaged soup, weak Wi-Fi. Returned to Bob Marley and ordered chicken pizza (950). Later grabbed momos (250). Multiple hot showers due to locked bathroom issues—the small battles persist.
Sep 19 – Short Hike to Charbarbu: The Glitching Body and Tech
Rise 8:20, shakshuka breakfast 850 with coffee. Paid tab 2550. Hiked up to Muktinath temples then followed a rocky trail to Charbarbu, arriving 11:45. Small village: three lodges. First had nice rooms but dead Wi-Fi. Second (Vajra) offered a rustic room for 200 but no shower. Ultimately took the first place with shower for 500, paying both (1000 total). Walked to 4600m viewpoint without pack—manageable. Returned via harder detour in drizzle. Laptop battery failing (orange flashing)—a critical vulnerability before the Pass. Dinner: chicken pizza 750, chatted with Praven from Florida. Ordered chicken curry too. No shower, early sleep—conservation mode engaged.
Sep 20 – Thorong La Crossing + Monster Day: The Peak Achievement
Rise 6:15. Kobo not charging either—total reliance on physical memory. Made instant coffee. Awkward squat-toilet session using pillowcase as towel—dignity sacrificed for utility. Paid 1400 for stay/meals at Charbarbu (~2900 total for 3 meals + lodge). Started trek at 7:15 with good weather. Meditation Rock at 8:18, steady climb with almond/raisin/cashew breaks. Snickers at the top. Reached Thorong La at 11:30, got pics, started descending at 11:50. Passed Yawaka and High Camp (charging 1000 for terrible rooms—predatory pricing). Reached Phedi at 2 p.m.—all lodges mid/low quality with unreliable Wi-Fi. Hiked back up to Hilltop (500 room), ordered chicken pizza 900. No shower. Left at 3:45 p.m. Crossed the long bridge and took a secluded uphill trail—seeking the solitary path. Reached Churi Lattar at 5:30—better lodges, checked into Dhading Laxmi (200 room with toilet). Ordered yak steak 1200. Hot shower using shirt as towel. Steak early at 6:40.