The Ghost Nomad Chronicles

Daily logs and insights from years on the road

🇹🇭 Weekly Log: Northern Road Trip (Jul 20 – Jul 26)

This week was dominated by a multi-day road trip through Northern Thailand's smaller towns (Saming, Fang, Mae Salong) before settling into Chiang Rai, characterized by aggressive riding, constant rain delays, and managing logistical friction.

Jul 20: Saming Setup and Blissful Roads

Woke 9:20a. Fixed double comment box on site, created new CSS templates. 11a, prayed at big statues. Got 2 small bowls of Kaosoi (20b/small) across the street. Quick pack (7min), left Koko hostel 1pm (super chill town, but low services and no night mkt). Drove to Saming Motel, setup was a hassle (had to call owner). Unpacked, drove west to Bang Yang (unpaved). Drove back, Lotus for milk tea, beef wontons slow 60b. Got another milk tea (20b each). Pt gas 100b. Drove east to Ban Phalai (blissful windy roads with sun and clouds, almost zero traffic). Drove SW to Ban Mae Mae (more hilly, unpaved rd 15k from hwy). Back to Lotus for beer, mkt kaopao box 30b. Motel shwr, rest, almost slept. Ate kaopao w/ beer. 9p rode to Minic area, reg Thai food pork garlic 60b peel. Rode NE to Ban Mungkhong.

Jul 21: Fang Ridge Ride and Fatigue

Woke 8:50a, tired from riding, ants everywhere. Made 7/11 Instacafe. Restarted work on mobile nav 10a. Chk kaopao 60b at Thai corner spot. Checked out Saming 11a exact. Rode down mountain, passed Hinoki Land. Stopped at Ban Mae Ka Tesco (snack 32b) to wait out rain. Ripped off on 95 gas (130b for 95octane). Arrived Fang 2pm. Found Preya (350b big room) then booked Pothong individual huts (322b Agoda, nicer than Saming). Fang day mkt noodle soup 60b. Rode long, steep, windy ride up Doi Pha Kha. Found an unmapped trail, bike stuck in mud, pushed out. Slipped on wet leaves, light spill on bike, no bike damage, felt like fitness upper body strength save the day. Doi Pha Horn National Park (free). Long ridge back to Fang. Pothong, realized busted key lanyard from bike spill. Shwr, put menthol on scrape wounds, washed shoes. Couldn't find night mkt. 7/11 beer, ate pork Thai food next to 7/11 (55b). Street stall duck rice 50b, pork bbq rice 50b w/ egg (solid). Felt the fatigue.

Jul 22: Mae Salong Soak and Squats

Slept fast, real tired. Woke 9a, hard rain. Right should bit messed up from bike accident. Instacafe w/ free hot water. 11a rode to Tesco bike area, pork belly kaopao 70b. Checked out Pothong 12p. Rode north, rain started, grab milk tea (25b, no smoothies). Kept riding, rain again. Stopped at local mkt (noodles 40b, baozi 15b, yams 10b). Got expensive gas at pump at side of rd (100b for 95octane). Stopped at sonteow stop near Mae Salong junction, heavy rain. Did light squats (60, 70, 80 air squats), pistols (1x18), adv kossack to keep warm. Drove thru heavy rain, found shelter with family w/ cooking fire, sat awhile w/ locals. Visit Chinese Martyr Cemetary. Arrived Mae Salong 5pm, checkin Shin Sane (304b Agoda, ID check—first time). No hot shwr. 7p went out, wore tristar sweater (first time). Locked key in room (first time this trip—staff responsive). Street noodles 40b, skewer 10b. Chinese restaurant w/ lazysusans, kaopao w/ egg 60b. 7/11 snacks n beer.

Jul 23: Chiang Rai Arrival and Fixing Code

Woke 9a, Instacafe. Rain trapped inside til 11a. Baozhi 24b, Yunan noodles 60b. Checked out Shin Sane 11:40a, forgot jacket, lost 10min backtracking. Bike skidded, almost dumped bike again! Caught in storm again at 7/11, grabbed energy drink, chk 15b, noodles 40b. Fixed bike mirror across st for 20b. Rode straight to Chiang Rai to avoid border towns (per GPT). Arrived CR 3pm, checkin Bed&Bike hostel 207b (300b cash dep). Walked south, found corner salad peanut spot 50b. Night Bazaar/bus station: local beef basil 65b. Shwr, nap lite. 7p worked on site: mobile hamburger done for main pages. Walked to night bazaar, ditched chatty Norway guy, chatted w/ China guy. Small food court, decent chk, order another pork dish that didn't arrive. Fixed sites hamburger menu for all mobile pages on hostel 4th fl.

Jul 24: Speed WO and Blue Temple

Slept in til 10:30a (comfy). Paid another night 218b (felt cheated). Instacafe w/ microwave. 12:34p walked for bfast, duck w/ rice 50b (small). Pt gas 100b (full, better deal). Found empty courtyard for speed WO: fence jumps, ~8 drills back n forth, stair hops (got 6stairs tough x2), stage jumps 2x10. Lite ATG drills, adv kossack 2x18 front n back. Rode to Blue Temple, paid 50b for museum (thai pressure sell). Hard rain, meditated a bit. Shoes smell real foul. Rode back, grab food in mkt (bananas smoothie + fried chk 75b). Tried to wash shoes, woman said no shoes in machines. Washed shoes in shwr w/ sock as scrub. Site work (revise nomad storage). Dinner: pork noodles 65b, chk thigh rice 45b, Lotus snax. Fixed blog mobile menu.

Jul 25: Calisthenics and Prep for Long Ride

Fat woman snoring, woke 10a, rose 10:30a. Paid 1n more 206b (woman said new towel every 3 days). Booked New Normal 101b in CM for tomorrow. Demanded new towel and got it using logic. Grabbed same bbq duck spot 60b (larger portion). Rode bike west to city hall, found decent calis spot: pullup 3x10 (close to failure), bar row 2x(13, 10). Rode twd Phra Cave, caught in rain near river, waited 30min. Shwr, rest, recover energy for tomorrow's long ride. 6:40p walked north, found lots of local food. Try Chinese chk rice 50b (local spot near clock tower). Beer at Tesco. Night mkt not appealing. Reg small food court chk suki 50b. Chill on top floor alone, chat w/ GPT.

Jul 26: Chiang Rai to Chiang Mai Grind

Bloat from random foods. Rise 9:30a (bit late for long ride). Instacafe w/ leftover Vietnam pack. 10:30a bfast duck rice 60b. Checked out Bed n Bike 11a, got 300b dep. Bike ignition wouldn't turn, fixed by nice neighbor. Started drive west twd CM. Hard rain and construction with dirt potholes, real rough conditions. Stop at King Koffee, did some kicks and mobility to wait out rain. Conditions improved. Lunch at KFC 99b (2pc fried drink), PTT gas 100b. Rest 10km outside city. Arrived CM New Normal House 4:30p (easier than expected). Crappy hostel, smelled, missed Gibbon. Booked Cooper/Gibbon for tomorrow. Walked to North Gate, 2 smoothies n pad thai 105b. Shwr, hard rest. Walked around North Gate mkt 8:20p, cheap beer 54b, chk khaopao 50b. Terrace wifi shit.